Extending wireless networks; some gotchas

Visiting the family over Christmas and of course there are the tech-support duties. One of which was making a wireless network extend further through an old house with very thick walls. In the small amount of time I had there wasn't the option of running network cables to some strategic points where additional WiFi access points could be installed so I invested in a couple of Netgear wireless extenders. 

I've used these before and been impressed; fast throughput and lots of features. They are proper NAT routers and you can use them as firewalls between ethernet network segments or extend an existing wireless network. In that mode (and it's a small switch that sets that mode) the ethernet ports become wired outlets for the WiFi network; intended for set-top boxes that can't be connected via a cable. They can turn a USB drive into a NAS drive and all this for less than twenty quid!

The only downside is that they have a single radio and so can only repeat a network on the channel that it arrives as. In a relatively WiFi-free environment you'd think this wouldn't be a problem, but I didn't figure on how rubbish the provided BT HomeHub 3 is! 

Since they have a flip-out antenna I figured I'd place one downstairs and one upstairs as close as possible to the room with the aDSL router and see how I got on. 

• It is a cheap, plastic, single-board gadget
• It has no external antenna or even socket for one
• You have to use it as the BT mothership monitors for their own secret sauce

What I discovered after two days of frustration is that it is entirely intolerant of other devices sharing it's channel. The Netgears can only repeat on the channel they receive on and so I was off to a non-starter. I would work for a few hours an then both of the Netgears would drop off the network and a round of re-booting (and half an hour for them to all settle down again) told me that this was not a reliable configuration for non-technical users.

So - after a bit of chin-scratching I came to this configuration;

• Netgear no.1 is wired to the BT hub and set for Access Point mode; it's re-serving the connection with a new IP range and (crucially) a new WiFi channel some distance from the BT hub.
• Netgear no.2 is set for wireless extender mode and is located at a mid-point in the house repeating the signal from no.1

This has been stable for more than a day now (I've insisted that my boys use the furthest repeated network) with only minimal speed loss (typ. 8 mbits^-1 against 10mbits^-1 at the BT) so I'm going to run away and hope!

Barnfind integration with third party control panels

Barnfind are one of the products I'm responsible for at Root6 and I love them for their forward looking attitude and the fact they embrace open standards; if you see an SFP hole or a BNC connector you know that it will work with any other manufacturers (unlike Evertz who re-define the standard and put an X at the start of the product name!).

So - the BarnOne BTF1-07 is the chassis I have in my demo kit and at IBC this year Wiggo and the guys were showing a much wider set of third party control panels they have integrated to work with their cross-point router. So, to make our demo more compelling I bought a BlackMagic VideoHub Smart control panel and set about making it talk to the BarnOne.

Since I have to rock-up at customers' facilities to show this gear I figured it's daft to rely on their networks and so I've included a TP-Link travel router to dish out IP addresses to the panel and the BarnFind; it also allows you to use a wireless laptop to then run the demo. These little gadgets have single WAN and LAN facing ports but rather splendidly the BlackMagic panel has a little ethernet hub inside so you can loop the network connection to the Barnfind. 

This screen-grab is from BarnStudio - the config/control software for Barnfind products. It has a discovery protocol so it can find any chassis on the same LAN segment. However - I discovered a couple of gotchas;

• When upgrading the chassis you can either attach a USB stick to the front and the embedded Linux machine will grab the image OR you can use BarnStudio. Initially I couldn't get either to work! 

• Barnstudio just instructs the Linux machine to do an apt-get (or similar) and so it has to be able to see out to the internet; connect the WAN-side of the little router to the workshop network!
• If you do the USB route then the installer checks the signature on the package; again, it needs to get out to the web to verify the cryptographic signature.

• The Blackmagic panel does not have any host-discovery protocol built in and so it seemed only sensible to set the router to always dish out the same MAC/IP address combinations by using the DCHP reserved assignment page in the router. Then assign those number in the BlackMagic config software.

After that it really is very simple - you set the virtual buttons to be whatever sources and destinations you want. You can even reserve some to be macros (which are then just a list of route assignments) - in fact that is how you would do duplex signals; Ethernet etc. You have to assign both the in and out of each SFP (Tx and Rx). You don't have to have sequential sources or destinations and I can't honestly see how they could have made it any better!

So - with BNCs 17 & 18 on the front of the Barnfind defined as 3G HD/SDi video in and out and these button assignments on the BM panel I've got proper router control. These forty-button panels will be very useful for controlling all the synchronous broadcast signals (HD/SDi, HDMI, MADI etc.) and asynchronous data signals (Ethernet, fibre-channel etc) running through a Barnfind router (and then out and over CWDM fibre?).

The only criticism is that the software matrix takes a second or so to update after panel changes are made; but I can't honestly see when that would be an issue - this software matrix is  tool for the engineer, not the operator.

As an aside they have recently published a very complete integration guide with lots of examples and advice.

http://media.barnfind.no/marketing/BarnGuide%202.0.pdf

Near synchronous video over UDP/IP with Sony's NXL-IP55

Just about the only things that caught my eye at the recent Beyond HD Masters day at Bafta was Sony's IP Live system. This is a single product called the NXL-IP55 which puts four 1080i 4:2:2 signals over a gigabit connection - so modest 6:1 compression with a well-defined single field of latency. The camera channels can go either way (so three source cameras and a return preview monitor for example) and embedded audio plus tally & camera head (colour) and lens control are included. It's quite expensive ($10k per end) but is the only video-over-IP device which I've seen so far which is suitable for live production.  

http://www.sony.co.uk/pro/press/pr-sony-nab-av-over-ip-interface

Photons vs. Electrons

At ten gigabits ethernet over copper cable really struggles. Everything has to be just right and even well terminated twisted pair cable is on the hairy-edge.

On the job that I've just finished had a lot of fibre and copper data and the time to test (on a per circuit basis) is much higher for copper than fibre. With OM3 fibres so long as you have an acceptable sub-3dBs of attenuation at 850nM ten gigs is a doddle. We had to re-terminate maybe half a dozen circuits and using our INNO core-alignment splicer it takes no time. On the other hand getting the copper data cables right is a mission with Near-end cross-talk, alien cross-talk and return loss all having the be measured across four pairs. The output (above) is from our Fluke DTX-1800 analyser.

As an aside, one of the freelancers I use a lot showed me a brilliant trick with fibre panels); the BT standard for core-order involves having the coloured and striped cores 12 couplers away from each other in a 24-port panel. The better way is to put the coloured and striped cores next to each other in the same duplex pair so that if you make a mistake it's easily rectified at test-time.

Using a DD-WRT router to NAT between two wireless segments

I've mentioned DD-WRT firmware in the past - it's an open-source replacement firmware for lots of cheap domestic internet routers. If the stock firmware on your router isn't doing it for you or you just want to see what all the fuss is about it is a superb way to make your £50 beige plastic router really sing; enterprise level network control for not much effort. It can terminate VPNs, do QOS and lots of the things you'd normally expect from a Cisco business class device.

Not all routers can take a different firmware image, but if yours is based on the Broadcom 54G chipset (an awful lot are) then you're away to the races; otherwise it's £15 on eBay!

Now then, my two eldest boys are away to university this month and it turns out that one of them is going to live in a student house that only has WiFi - I intended that they would both take DD-WRT routers with them to isolate their little dorm-room networks from IT ne'er do wells (NAT - Network Address Translation, the kind you get with a router, is an excellent defense against port-scanners). BUT, without a wired connection to place on the WAN side of the router how do you isolate and provide both wired and wireless connections behind the router's firewall? My first thought was to buy one of those "connect your Sky+ box Ethernet to your WiFi" adapters. It would turn the insecure WiFi into a wired connection that would sit on the WAN side of the router. 

BUT, it's one more thing to go wrong and I was sure that DD-WRT could do it with a bit of tinkering. I looked at a few of the guides online and they were very convoluted with warnings about obscure settings causing trouble and so I decided to figure it out from scratch. It went surprisingly well and now I have a Linksys router that can attach to an existing WiFi access point and then NAT that connection through to another WiFi segment as well as the wired RJ45 links.

So, couple of things to point out.

• My home WiFi's SSID is thorpedale4 and the IP range is 10.100.100.x (.8 is the router)
• I wanted all the hosts on the other side of the Linksys to be on a 192.168.1.x network

First up - I set the Linksys to not be an Access Point but to be a client wireless device (taking baby steps; I just wanted to make sure I could attach it to the house WiFi)

This is done under wireless>basic settings>wireless mode and is set to client and then go to wireless security and make sure you've entered the necessary settings (WPA key etc)

Reboot the router and check it is connecting to the external WiFi - see above. After this make sure you can get out to the internet from a wired connection on the Linksys. At this point the Linksys will be passing back all protocols to the main router and so you'll find the laptop is on the same IP range as the main network and there is no link-isolation (no firewall between the two networks) - we're not there yet!

Next, set the wireless>basic settings>wireless mode to repeater and add in a second virtual wireless interface (this will be your new wireless segment);

Then set up the security - again, the first is for the wireless you're attaching to;

BUT, the second is for the new network you're creating. As the router is now in repeater mode the new wireless segment is on a separate IP subnet (found in the setup>basic settings tab) and by default on the 192.168.1.x segment. The same applies to the wired connections on the Linksys - job done!

Attaching to the new network is as you'd expect;

and looking at the network details shows we're not on the house's 10.100.100.x network;

In fact, trying to reach the new network from the "outer" network;

As far as I can tell there is only one downside to this method - speed; the 54G wireless is now only running around 22Mbits/sec on both segments and that's no surprise as the Linksys is having to hold up two 802.11 links (different frequencies) using only one radio.
BUT, I have a router than can happily attach to a potentially insecure wireless network and produce a new wireless segment as well as wired Ethernet with the SPI (state-full packet inspection) firewall in the way. I paid around a tenner for the router!